Today’s post is a guest post written by knitting and crochet designer Susan Kerin. To learn more about Susan and her work, visit her designer profile page.
The duplicate stitch is a wonderful design element. As nice as the duplicate stitch is, it can sometimes be challenging to produce good looking, best possible results. Creating each ‘perfect’ duplicate stitch takes extreme consistency and exact tension to correctly duplicate the stitch being worked. These photos show the duplicate stitch chain ganging worked on red stockinette st knitting. I find that this ‘ganging’ produces very good and consistent results, especially for large areas of stockinette st I need to work.
The stitches produced using this method result in independent ‘columns’ of stitches which sit ON TOP of stockinette stitches (see above two photos). The column of ganged sts lay atop the stockinette sts underneath it (as shown at right). The st is not flat against it as it would be in a regular duplicate st. Stitches are worked from the TOP of the fabric to the bottom. They can be worked as rows left to right or right to left, or vertically, BUT ROWS OR SINGLE COLUMNS ARE ALWAYS WORKED TOP TO BOTTOM STITCH BY STITCH. In a completed piece, when the fabric is stretched, the columns are easily seen, creating another design element, but bounce back when not being stretched, as shown.
How to Work the Duplicate Stitch Chain Gang
Beginning at the top of a column of stitches upon which stitches are to be worked:
- Insert yarn needle into the first st (same step as for the first stitch of a regular duplicate st).
- To work a vertical column of stitches: Next, under this st, insert needle up through the bottom of the next stitch (again, same as for the regular duplicate st). NOW here is where things will be different:
- Insert needle under the 2 lps of the stitch just made – NOT AT ALL in any part of the stockinette stitch underneath,pull thru, then
- complete by inserting needle into same sp where yarn was brought up and pull thru. Rep steps 1-4.
Tip: If working rows left to right be sure not to let the st become crossed when doing step #4 (said another way, be sure to insert the needle left of the first half of the st when going back into the same sp). If working rows right to left, insert needle right of the first half of the st, etc.).
Santa Photos Above: regular duplicate stitch, showing inconsistencies and gaps after working stitches. As well, in the left photo, the fingers are stretching the fabric left to right. Note the difference between the stitches in this photo and the Christmas Tree photo of the ‘duplicate stitch chain ganging’.
Tell us: Have you ever tried the duplicate stitch?
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I made a big bulky sweater for my 6″3″ grandson who wanted crossed hockey sticks on the front and large number 22 on the back. I did all the pattern in duplicate stitch. It turned out great and my grandson was thrilled.
I’m wondering why my duplicate stitches make the sweater feel extra “bulky” in that area? What am I doing wrong?
i’ve always worked my duplicate stitches left to right … carefully, but never had a really good look to the piece. will try the to to bottom next time i get the itch to duplicat. thanx!
Ok, this might help my duplicate stitching! Which is (let’s face it) just awful, as a rule. Thanks!
Joanne use thinner wool or pull one strand out will be nt as bulky
The Christmas Stocking shown – can I get the pattern? My mother-in-law knit this for all her kids, but she now has alzheimers and says her mother knit the stockings. I knit and and can bring it to the next generation, if I can get the pattern.
1945 Personalized Christmas Stocking. I found it on Ravelry.com. Love that site!
This is GREAT! I wonder if it will work with Tunisian Knit Stitch?
I think these might be easier to do with a crochet hook and perhaps with a more regular tension than embroidering chain stitches by hand.